Shooting On Foggy Days? Find Your Scene Then Find A Colorful Foreground

Spring Color, Sobranes Point

Spring Color, Soberanes Point and Arch, Garapatta State Park, Big Sur Coast
Canon 5DMKIII, 22mm, f/22, 1 second, 100 ISO, Singh Ray Thin LB Polarizer

NOTE: If you would like to shoot with me next Month in Big Sur, I have had one position open up. Please click here for more information.

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I love spring along the coast of Big Sur. We are in the transition time of year when the fog season is gradually starting its return with the help of rising temps in the central valley and the warmer air aloft passing over the relatively cold waters of the central Pacific Ocean. Too many factors are involved to predict exactly when and where fog will form, but when it does, I immediately seek out color to add to the mono-toned diffused light.

But this is not a blog about shooting in the fog; instead, this is about finding foregrounds to both enliven and add depth to your foggy day scenes.

Seems ironic that I am writing this blog while sitting in a Sun City, Arizona Starbucks. Don’t believe me? Well, I almost saw an older woman on a 3-wheel bike get wiped-out by an older gentleman a bit out-of-control in his golf cart. Hey, I can’t make this stuff up 🙂 Fortunately everyone is alright!

I’m in Arizona with Gary Hart to watch our beloved San Francisco Giants play some Spring Training baseball before the start of my Northern Arizona Workshop tomorrow (we start at the Grand Canyon and end in Sedona next Tuesday).

I was going through some images for the workshop when I came across these two. The lead image of Soberanes Arch shows just how colorful the headlands along the Big Sur Coast can get at this time of year. This foreground is a mix of flowering ice plant (non-native and evasive, but very photogenic), mixed with sea daisies. In the winter, this patch is rather dormant.

The arch is really the subject of the image, but as nice as it looked, under mono-toned conditions like fog (and clouds), I always challenge myself to find something colorful. In honesty, I didn’t have to go far to find this spot. If you have taken one of my Big Sur workshops, you will immediately recognize the location.

Julie-Pfeiffer-and-Flowers

Flowering Ice Plant, Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park – McWay Fall, Big Sur Coast
Canon 1DMKIII, 35mm, f/22, 3 second timed-exposure, 200 ISO

In this image that I captured at Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park, I decided to relegate the 80-foot freshwater McWay Fall to a background element;  instead, letting the gorgeous flowering ice plant take center stage.

This image was made about 15 minutes after sunset. The wind had completely died away (as is often the case once the sun disappears) and I could use a 3-second exposure and f/22 for extreme depth-of-field to make this image work. Any wind would have blurred the flowers and ruined the image.

Again, with the light subdued and mono-toned, I found a colorful foreground.

The other point is that if you find a great background, find a foreground to go with it; conversely, if you find an awesome foreground, find a background to match. Don’t think one without the other.

Challenging yourself to think this way will add the extra benefit of creating the illusion of depth in your images. I talked about this in my blog on Point of View and Perspective.

Well, the crack-of-the-bat is calling. It’s springtime – a great time of year!

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2014 Photo Workshops – Complete List

6th Annual Northern Arizona Workshop – Grand Canyon (full moon), Page (Horseshoe Bend and Upper Antelope Canyon) and Sedona – March 14-18, 2014 (WORKSHOP SOLD OUT – WAITING LIST ONLY)

7th Annual Springtime in Big Sur and the Monterey Peninsula – Wildflowers, Misty Fog and Headland Color – April 14-17, 2014 (ONE SPOT OPEN DUE TO CANCELLATION)

5th Annual Kauai Workshop – Garden Isle and Tropical Paradise – June 20-24, 2014 (Hurry – Only 3 Spots Remaining)

2nd Annual Monsoon Photo Workshop – Workshop #1 – Grand Canyon National Park – August 9-13, 2014 (co-taught by Don Smith and Gary Hart – WORKSHOP SOLD OUT :: WAITING LIST ONLY)

2nd Annual Monsoon Photo Workshop – Grand Canyon National Par – Workshop #2k – August 15-19, 2014 (co-taught by Don Smith and Gary Hart – 6 spots remaining)

3rd Annual Fall Color in Grand Teton National Park – Workshop #1 – September 23 – 27, 2014 (WORKSHOP SOLD OUT :: WAITING LIST ONLY)

3rd Annual Fall Color in Grand Teton National Park – Workshop #2 – September 28 – October 2, 2014 (7 spots remaining)

6th Annual Arches/Canyonlands National Parks and Monument Valley :: Full Moon Over Red Rock, Arches, Canyons and Monument Valley’s Mittens – October 4-8, 2014 (6 spots left)

4th Annual Bryce Canyon and Zion National Parks :: Bryce Canyon Hoodoos and Zion Fall Color – November 1-5, 2014 (6 spots left)

2015 Photo Workshops

6th Annual Magic Light, Moonlight, and Pfeiffer Arch Workshop – Winter in Big Sur and the Monterey Peninsula – January 4-7, 2015 (WORKSHOP JUST ADDED)

Software Discounts

Photomatix Pro 4.2 type in code at checkout: donsmithphotography 15% discount

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Hardware Discounts

Check Out The New March Products From Our Friends at Think Tank (receive a free product when placing an order)!

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Hyperfocal Focusing Demystified!

Canon 1DsMKIII, 16-35mmL II @ f/16, 1/4th second shutter, 200 ISO, Singh-Ray 3-stop Reverse Grad, Lexar Digital Media.

Where one chooses to place a focus point for a particular aperture and focal length determines the range of acceptable focus for that image. There is a helpful way if you are not sure called Hyperfocal focusing, that indeed takes a lot of the guesswork out of the equation. Problem for us landscape photographers is that our beautiful dawn/sunrise and sunset/dusk light simply comes and goes too quickly to spend time consulting hard-to-read charts.

Fortunately we are living in the techno-age where most of us carry some form of smartphone. I have an iPhone and I find it indispensable in regards to the number of helpful apps that I can consult at a moment’s notice. This includes a hyperfocal app – I use Depth of Field calculator put out by Focal. Unfortunately, they do not make it easy to find in the App store. If you search the following (focal depth of field) you will spot the app on the top of the page (see top left screen shot below). It is easy to use and very efficient.

First, let’s discuss exactly what the term hyperfocal means. The hyperfocal distance is the closest distance at which a lens can be focused while keeping objects at infinity acceptably sharp. When the lens is focused at this distance, all objects at distances from half of the hyperfocal distance out to infinity will be acceptably sharp. The term “acceptable” varies but is generally regarded as an acceptably sharp 8″ x 10″ print. Acceptably sharp also is defined by a term “Circle of Confusion,” (an optical spot caused by a cone of light rays from a lens not coming to a perfect focus when imaging a point source). I hope this isn’t too confusing!

So to put this into practical terms, look at the righthand image of the app below. You will see my camera listed – Canon 1DsMKIII, which is a full frame sensor. Set your camera into the apps’ memory and it will calculate for any crop factor. Next, set the lens focal length. If you are using a zoom lens, use your best guesstimate. Next, choose an aperture (I used f/22 for this scene as I wanted to maximize my depth-of-field). Lastly choose a distance that best correlates to your foreground subject. As you can see in this example, if I focus my lens five feet into the scene, everything from 1.82 feet to infinity will be in focus (or acceptably sharp). My true “hyperfocal distance” is 2.86 feet. Remember, roughly half that number to infinity is my range of true focus!

In the accompanying image captured at Big Sur’s Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park, I placed my focus on the far edge of the foliage (roughly 5 feet from my camera) with my 16-35mmL lens (set at 16 mm). This allowed my foreground foliage to record sharp along with the setting sun on the horizon at infinity (I had a range of acceptable focus from 1.3 ft. to infinity). I did not have time to consult my app while the sun was rapidly disappearing; instead, I usually play with scenarios while either waiting for the light or while at home or in my hotel room. After a while, you’ll develop a good feel for range of focus and not have to constantly consult the app. Fortunately for this scene, I guessed correctly!


Exploring Visual Concepts – Color Harmony

Canon1DsMKIII, 16-35mmL @ f/16, (6) frames blended in Photoshop, ISO 100, Lexar Digital Media.

When I first started down the path of serious landscape photography, I photographed and learned to see the world in black-and-white. I was heavily influenced by the great masters: Ansel Adams, Ed Weston and John Sexton (all local Monterey Bay neighbors). I then began exploring with Kodachrome 25 and 64 and I was hooked. Their soft pastel color palettes won me over. Later, Fuji introduced its much ballyhooed Velvia and the world took on an even more vibrant look where images exploded off the light table! The tradeoff was that it was tough to control color. I could no longer burn, dodge, bleach, etc., as I could with a B&W print. Well we know that all changed with digital. But what hasn’t changed is my appreciation of color and color harmony in scenes I try to capture.

Psychological studies have proven that color can alter mood and emotions. Moreover, each color has its own psychological implications and visual weight. Placement of different colored elements in your scene is crucial with the correct information. For example, warm colors tend to move forward, while cool colors recede. Bright colors also advance while dark colors recede. You can also choose where to place different colors within your scene to create either tension, or in the case of this article, visual harmony.

Color is a phenomenon of light as was demonstrated back in 1676 by Sir Isaac Newton when he passed sunlight through a prism. White light is comprised of seven basic colors from violet to red. We also know that when we look at an object, we are actually seeing light reflected from its surface.  Most of us are also aware of the color wheel to some degree. The primaries as we all know are: red, blue and yellow. They have the most visual impact because they are considered to be pure. All other colors can be created by various mixing of these colors; mixing all three will produce a dark gray. As you begin to mix primary colors, they tend to lose their visual punch but the resulting color is pleasing nonetheless.

The secondaries are made up of two equal parts of two primaries: red-green, blue-orange, and yellow-purple. These color combinations are call complimentary. When these colors are used next to each other, each hue tends to vibrate more intensely. Here is how they are mixed: red complements (blue + yellow) = green; blue complements (red + yellow) = orange; yellow complements (red + blue) = violet.

An interesting aside worth mentioning is when one stares at a single color (blue for example) for a sustained period of time (roughly thirty seconds to a minute), then looks at a white surface, an afterimage of the complementary color (in this case orange) will appear. This is one of several aftereffects studied in the psychology of visual perception which are generally ascribed to fatigue in specific parts of the visual system.

As visual artists, we need to be aware of complementary colors in nature and use them to our advantage. An orange-tinged bristlecone pine looks more vibrant when placed against a cobalt blue sky. Moreover, red maple leaves appear more saturated when juxtaposed against some green aspen leaves.

Harmonious colors in nature are even less intense than complementary color combinations but are very appealing for your viewer. They are closely related hues (or pure color) used in a color scheme. Some of one color is found in another color (i.e. orange and green are in harmony with yellow because they both have yellow in them). A harmonious color scheme produces a feeling of tranquility and peace. In the image accompanying this article, I started the scene with a backlit green bush that glowed yellow in the setting sun light. The eye then moves through the turquoise water (this is actually how the water looks) to a more neutral gray water of the ocean, then ends with a warm orange/yellow horizon. A warm-cool-warm relationship. I love finding this relationship in nature as it involves two complimentary color groups: red-green and blue-orange. There is also a bit of tension introduced from the combination of warm and cool colors.

Nature is amazing, especially around the fringes of the day, when light and color saturates and mixes in harmonious relationships that bring an image to life. This scene is still beautiful even if I were to have photographed it at mid-day, but it evokes more emotions and mood by waiting for the low warm light to arrive and do its thing.

If you are new to color in terms of using it to your advantage, then I would encourage you to do some homework on color theory. At least learn the basics with a rudimentary understanding of the color wheel and color relationships. Knowledge is a powerful tool in helping us create images that can emotionally connect with our viewer. Similar to the study of light itself, become a student of color and a scene’s tonality and I guarantee you will see a marked improvement in your images.